Spain
Lanzarote, Canary Islands
Volcanoes, Camel Rides, Beautiful Beaches, Contemporary Art
On the hillsides and fields of black lava, rocks were put into semi-circles two metres in diameter with something green growing inside. These circles covered the ground for as far as I could see. Is it a new form of art? Some mystic religious symbols? Burial grounds? No, I was in the middle of a grape growing district, La Geria, in the lava flows in the southern part of Lanzarote. These vines produce the exquisite malmsey wine. Because it rarely rains on the island, the farmers enclose the vines in a small crater of rocks and spread a fine layer of volcanic ash which absorb the night dew and gives the plants the necessary humidity.
Lanzarote is the most north easterly of the Canary Islands, lying in the Atlantic Ocean only 100 km from the west coast of Africa. Although part of Spain, the islands maintain their own character, quite different from the mainland -- and Lanzarote is quite different from the other Canary Islands -- I felt like I had landed on a planet that was newly settled by earthlings. Everywhere were efforts of the people to transform the desolate lava landscape into flowering hillsides and fields of tomatoes, onions, grapes, figs, and melons.
During the period 1730 - 36, its western central region underwent the longest volcanic eruption in recorded history. Within a mere 8 square kms. 25 craters opened up. Their activity changed the face of the island, leaving whole areas of lava which you see today, exactly the same as when the streams of lava solidified and cooled.
At the end of one of the lava flows sits the tiny picture perfect town of Yaiza. Cesar Manrique, the Canaries leading artist/architect/environmentalist, has led the fight to keep Lanzarote beautiful. Yaiza is his centerpiece -- all the one and two story buildings are white with true green trim. Landscaping is carefully done to highlight the black and salmon lava background.
There are about 60,000 inhabitants on Lanzarote and over 30,000 live in its capital Arrecife, on the eastern coast. I stayed at the Arrecife Gran -- built before Manrique got the island to ban high-rises, neon signs and billboards. The hotel is a good value -- its ocean view balconies are as large as the rooms and it has 2 pools, mini-golf, lovely landscaped gardens, and a beach next door. Arrecife means “reef” and as its name suggests the coast is full of rocks and skerries. There are two castles that guarded the city: San Gabriel (1570), which now houses the Archaeological Museum; and San Jose (1771), restored and renovated to become the International Contemporary Art Museum.
Because the island measures only 60 km by 21 km., it is quite easy to drive around and see most of it, and tours are available. If you decide to drive yourself, be sure to get the book from the Spanish Tourist Bureau - “Lanzarote - Itineraries of Interest to Visitors,” complete with an easy-to-understand map. In the middle of the island, in the middle of a farming area, is the modern “statue” - Monument al Campesino (Peasant’s Monument) designed by Cesar Manrique. On the western side of the island is the National Park de Timanfaya. Here you can take a bus tour around a volcanic crater or just eat in the restaurant which gets its heat from the volcano below. Temperatures of 400 degrees Celsius are only a few metres underfoot and guides are there to prove it to you with an interesting experiment. Nearby are the famous camel rides. Two people sit on either side of the camel’s hump and you get quite a smooth ride over the always spectacular volcanic landscape.
Also on the western coast is El Golfo, an inactive crater with a salt water lagoon inside. Nearby are the enormous sea caves, Los Hervideros, where one can get pictures of the pounding surf.
Three places are developed for tourists to holiday: Playa Blanca on the southern shore, Puerto del Carmon on the southeastern shore and Costa Tequise, northeast of Arrecife.
Taking the bumpy road east from Playa Blanca you will discover the beach Papagayo, considered the most beautiful in Spain. Bathing suits are optional in this swimming paradise, but there are no refreshment stands, so be sure to take a snack. (That might have changed so please check.) For something completely different travel to the northern part of the island to La Cueva de Los Verdes, a 6 km long volcanic tube that has a fabulous concert hall inside.
A truly “out of this world” place to visit -- Lanzarote!
Google Lanzarote images!